The salt
Since ancient times the Camargue is a territory of salt production and exploitation. It was once used mainly for the preservation of food and seafood products. Since the 19th century, salt production has been booming thanks to increased food consumption and its use in the chemical industry. Thus, in 1856, the 17 owners of salt flats present in the territory of Aigues-Mortes joined forces to give birth to the Compagnie des Salins du Midi. The Salins stretch for 18 kms from north to south and 13 kms from east to west on an area of 10800 ha, equivalent to the area of the city of Paris intra muros and has 340 kms of roads and paths. Production of Salins du Midi averages 400,000 tonnes per year.
The production of salt takes place over 4 months, the sea water will thus cover nearly 60 kms in the roubines, canals connecting the basins to the sea, before turning into salt. It all starts at the beginning of spring, the sauniers, rich of a specific know-how transmitted from generation to generation, start by putting in water the basins. Then comes the concentration phase. Thanks to wind and sun-controlled water management by the sauniers and their daily salt table salinity checks, seawater evaporates almost completely from the ponds, leaving room for salt-saturated water called brine. It is at this time that the basins are tinted in a pink color. Indeed the microscopic alga Dunaliella Salina likes to grow in waters highly concentrated in salt and its richness in carotene colors the basins. The higher the salt content, the more the seaweed develops and the colour of the salty tables changes from light green to intense red. From April to September the crystallization phase takes place. The salt present in the basins crystallizes thanks to the increase in temperatures leading to the evaporation of seawater to form a «salt cake» of an average thickness of 9 cm. Finally, the harvest takes place only once a year in September before the heavy rains. This requires significant human and material resources. After harvest, the salt is stored as 25 m high and 400 m long mounds called camelles. The space, the time and the quality of the waters allow to harvest a great diversity of salt: coarse salt, fine salt and especially the precious Fleur de Sel.
The Fleur de Sel or «white gold» was once the privilege of the owners of salt flats who collected it for their personal consumption. The Fleur de Sel is formed during the summer afternoons, when the temperature difference between the warm breeze and the surface of the salt marshes is sufficient, resulting in a sudden over-saturation of the water. It is therefore sparsely dense and rises to the surface of the water by forming lines of thin layers of crystals, naturally white, on the edge of the basins. While the classic salt is formed during the day thanks to the evaporation of the water which becomes saturated in salt and therefore produces a dense salt which flows to the bottom of the basins. The Fleur de Sel benefits from a particular surveillance on the part of the sauniers since at the slightest rain, it risks to dissolve, to flow and therefore to turn into coarse salt. In keeping with tradition, it is still harvested manually and daily, in the evening. With the help of shovels, the sauniers pick up the Fleur de Sel and place it on permeable bags in order to drain the water and let it drain for 6 months. Its delicate taste and fine, crispy texture make it ideal to accompany grilled vegetables, fish and salads.
The sauniers are also the guarantors of the preservation of the natural richness of the salins by participating in the banding of the animals and the creation of nesting islands for the birds.
The rice
The cultivation of rice in the Camargue dates back to the 13th century. Indeed the earth and the climate are favorable: the temperature differences are small and the brightness intense. Rice growing became intensive and irrigated at the end of the nineteenth century thanks to the containment of the Rhone, thus allowing a supply of fresh water in the rice fields. It plays a major role in the regulation of the ecosystem and the hydrology of the delta. Fresh water introduced into the rice fields also benefits ponds and marshes. Without this, the ecosystem would be totally different because the salinity is too important: the Camargue would be a desert of salt and the soils completely sterile. In 2010, 200 rice farmers exploited 21,000 ha to produce more than 120,000 tonnes of rice. The Camargue is the main place of rice production in France.
In the spring, rice farmers start by flooding the plots by pumping the fresh water from the Rhone and bringing it to the rice fields via irrigation channels called «porteaux». In May, the rice is sown directly in the water. At this stage, the farmer plays a key role in the management of water levels in the rice fields in order to maintain a 5 to 10 cm high level of water almost permanently on the ground, which promotes rapid emergence of seeds. When the temperatures are warm and the wind is still absent, the germination is fast and strong. The rice finally comes out of the water and is coloured with a soft green. In June, the fields become real lawns where you no longer see the water. During the summer, rice continues to grow. The cobs begin to bloom and begin to germinate. The end of summer is a time of danger to the crops. If temperatures drop below 14° by day or night, the grains perish and the harvest is lost. It is also the time to stop the irrigation of the rice fields which are slowly starting to dry up. Harvesting takes place from mid-September to the end of October using combine harvesters. The rice is then sent to storage silos before being sorted according to its variety and dried. After harvests, the plots are left to rest during the winter to be replanted the following spring or some are sown in durum wheat in the fall.
The rice growing in the Camargue offers different varieties: whole rice, white rice, fragrant rice or steamed rice. The different categories agree on different preparations. The round rice, soft and mellow, is rather used for desserts and entremets. Half-long rice is used instead to prepare paellas and risottos. Long rice has a perfect hold for large salads. The very long rice goes perfectly with the meat and fish during the summer grills. The emblematic product is the red Camargue rice, which is a complete rice of dark red color. It is organically grown and harvested at full maturity so as not to alter its subtle taste. It is also naturally dried under the sun and mistral. Since 2000, Camargue rice has benefited from a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), attesting to the origin of the product and the constancy of its level of quality.The rice culture in Camargue offers different varieties: whole rice, white rice, scented rice or steamed rice. The different categories agree on different preparations. The round rice, soft and mellow, is rather used for desserts and entremets. Half-long rice is used instead to prepare paellas and risottos. Long rice has a perfect hold for large salads. The very long rice goes perfectly with the meat and fish during the summer grills. The emblematic product is the red Camargue rice, which is a complete rice of dark red color. It is organically grown and harvested at full maturity so as not to alter its subtle taste. It is also naturally dried under the sun and mistral. Since 2000, Camargue rice has benefited from a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), attesting to the origin of the product and the consistency of its quality level.
The wine
Viticulture has been present in the Camargue since the 15th century. In the past, table wine was produced in the Camargue and was not valued. The drainage and sanitation of the Petite Camargue allowed the cultivation of this salty, wet and flooded environment. The management of water thanks to the roubines (canals dug and arranged by the Man) is also an essential element of the viticulture in Camargue. The wines of Camargue had a flourishing period at the beginning of the XXth century while the other vineyards are ravaged by phylloxera. Indeed, this insect that attacks the roots of grape varieties has not developed in the Camargue. The vines, flooded by storms, resisted the epidemic. The modernization of the vineyard and the creation of the Vins des Sables appellation have brought Camargue wines these letters of nobility. They are exclusively cultivated on the sandy coastal cords between the Saintes Maries de la Mer and Cap d'Agde. This exceptional terroir, combining the influences of the Mediterranean and nearby landforms, is full of maritime expression in the heart of a wild nature.
Since the 15th century, viticulture is present in the territory of Aigues-Mortes. Around 1880, the Compagnie des Salins planted many vines for wine production. In 1955 the Listel brand was created to market these wines. This name comes from the place called Isle de Stel, small sandy islet of the Domaine de Jarras at the foot of the ramparts of Aigues-Mortes. These wines, known as Vin des Sables du Golf du Lyon, are renowned for their freshness, balance, delicacy, lightness and aromatic complexity due to the assembly of several grape varieties. Indeed the vineyard includes both traditional varieties of high renown such as grenache or syrah but also noble grape varieties such as cabernet, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon. This diversity of grape varieties reflects an exceptional terroir combining the influences of the Mediterranean Sea and a wild nature.
Fishing
The Camargue is a popular destination for many fishermen. Professional fishing is still very present in the Camargue, especially in the Grau du Roi which is the 2° fishing port in the Mediterranean. It benefits from a rich know-how concerning the making and laying of nets, transmitted from generation to generation.
The choice of species and techniques varies according to the fishing site. At sea, it is often practiced in net for the soles, the «wolves» (bars), sea bream, tuna and rays. In ponds, the net with traps is most often used for eels and atherians (small fish cooked in frying). In the Rhône, traps and driftnets are required for fishing for pike perch, pike and catfish. On the beach, telliniers use hand trawls to harvest telline, a small shell buried in the sand and very popular locally.
The reed
The cultivation of reed or “sagne” in the Camargue represents ¾ of French production. The reed beds of Camargue, present mainly in the marshes of Charnier and Scamandre in Petite Camargue, extend over about 5,000 ha and are therefore the largest in France. Reed beds play an important role in maintaining biodiversity in the Camargue.
In the Middle Ages, the sagneurs cut the reed twice a year: in summer when it is green for the fodder of the animals and in winter when it is dry to cover the traditional Camargue houses. Once cut, they pack the stems and tie them in boots with wire. Today, the cutting of reeds takes place only in winter, from mid-November to the end of March, when the reeds are very dry. The so-called «sagnadou» manual cutting has given way to a large-scale mechanical operation.
The reed is used in the manufacture of roofs in many French regions as well as in northern Europe but, paradoxically, little in the Camargue. Known for its qualities of sound and thermal insulation and its high resistance, about 30 years, it therefore replaces more and more stubble. It is also used in mats for making windbreaks and fences.
